I've had my bitex fatbike pawl hub for 2 years and just used a wet-chain lube oil. Mainly because this is what I have This seemed to work and keeps it quiet. works also great in winter. Now we’ve had a look at the internals of the freehub, let’s turn to the outside of the freehub – the part on which your cassette mounts. Many wheelset makers sell wheels with the option to choose different freehub standards though, so if you know what type of cassette you plan to use, you can buy a compatible wheelset.

I’m guessing One Pivot makes the assumption that everyone knows, or should know what NLGI is, by his not defining what that acronym is. It’s the National Lubricating Grease Institute and they have defined some industry standards that most mere mortals are unaware of, or couldn’t give a sh!t about. For some riding, a high number of points of engagement (and hence a small angle of engagement) is considered desirable. The simplest way for a manufacturer to achieve this is to increase the number of teeth on the drive ring. since you commented that it freewheels perfectly, all you need is some chain oil in there as mscantland said.

I use Sta-Lube Marine grease for most bearing applications, including freehub pawls on various wheels. You can also use Shimano-standard cassettes with 8, 9 or 10 speeds, but will need to fit a 1.85mm spacer on the inboard side of the cassette to fit, plus an additional 1mm spacer for 10-speed cassettes. Once you have a clear view on all of that you can fiddle around with various lubes, change your cleaning method etc.

There are many different standards used by the different drivetrain makers – that’s mainly Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo – as well as different ones for mountain bike and road bike freehubs. On a freehub, the mechanism is pretty well-sealed and greased from the factory. However, they are pretty easy to disassemble in most cases. Be sure to grease this splined interface before reassembling Dave Caudery Servicing Campagnolo freehubsLoosen threaded pinch nut on left side of axle. Unthread and remove this nut after loosening screw that hold pinch nut. Basically a good quality oil is always better but it also will be displaced and dissolved more easily so it requires more frequent maintenance. In the standard DT Swiss Ratchet system and the entry-level Ratchet LN, both ratchets can move in the hub and are pushed together by springs. DT Swiss is one of the World’s best respected hub manufacturers, and for good reason. Their hubs are reliable, light, strong and easy to service.

alexnharvey wrote:Teflon is an additive not a soap base like lithium etc, I am not sure therefore that you can determine rubber compatibility on the basis there is Teflon in a grease. so if the axle is loose the whole wheel slides side to side in the frame. Hammering the inner race each time. Affects shifting and brake rotor Halo freehubs take the multiple-teeth approach to give you 120 points of engagement. Rather than the more usual flat profile, its pawls are wedge-shaped, so that pedalling force pushes them harder against the teeth in the hub. The chain and cogs were squeaky clean and grease free but so was the freehub eventually..................It may be considered cute to have a noisy ratchet but it will likely slow you down whilst coasting. You'd want a higher viscosity grease on the pawls than you'd use in your bearings but you'd better verify the pawls pop up correctly. I, for one, used to suffer from freehub bearings running out of lube because I cleaned the chain and cogs with an agressive degreaser and probably using too much of that good thing in the process.

BTW in the procedure I outlined in the post above, after having used the thing for a couple of weeks with oil in , you service the hub bearings like you were going to do anyway. So you can have grease in the main bearings, and a different lube in the freehub if you want. With most shimano and shimano clone freehubs, whatever lube is in the RH hub bearing ends up in the freehub body, provided it is fluid enough. Some greases really are special. But in other cases the grease doesn't really matter. Since so many companies just say to use their approved grease, it can be hard to tell apart which applications are really special and which ones don't really matter. With my Shimano freehubs I just remove them from the hub, remove the rubber seal from the rear and squeeze grease into the recess behind the seal until it comes out of the other end of the freehub (the bearing cup), and clean out the purged crud before greasing the bearing cup. I think using oil in the freehub bearings risks diluting the grease in the cup and cone hub bearings which sit inside the freehub, as there does not seem to be any seal between the freehub pawls and the hub bearing. The freehub is the ratcheting mechanism attached to the rear hub of most modern derailleur bike hubs. The freehub uses a splined cylinder to hold the cassette cogs. Inside the freehub mechanism will be bearings and a clutch system, usually ratcheting teeth and pawls. The cassette cogs have no moving parts. All moving parts are in the freehub body.

Within each, there are lots of variations in how they’re engineered and there are some well-known specialist designs such as Chris King hubs.