I actually found Cindy through TikTok last year, and was intrigued by the concept of a ‘bog coat’. This ancient way of making clothing has been given a new twist through Cindy’s patterns, which you can find on Etsy. A garment which is zero waste is designed in a different way to regular garments. Normally, the process starts with a fashion sketch, it’s interpreted into a pattern by a patternmaker, then the pattern pieces are laid out on the fabric in the most economical way (and cut out). With a zero waste garment, the design, pattern and layout are all made at the same time. The designing happens as the pattern and layout develop. The design reveals itself when the pattern is complete. Can you see how different this is to how we normally design? It’s using patternmaking as the design tool. For a customizable sewing project, try this cropped t-shirt. The cloth should measure the circumference of your body for a fit as shown above. To personalize the look, you can create a more voluminous form with a wider piece of cloth, or a closer fit with a narrower piece. Use chiffon or another soft fabric for a more fluid look, or try a stiffer fabric for something more structured. The pattern is free, but the sewing experience is different from working with a conventional pattern. Read the instructions through before starting. I love to see all your projects. Do comment below, or tag me in your makes on social media. Find me at

Sizing: A (10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24), which is approx. UK sizes A (8 – 20/22) based on our standardised size chart. Available in the shop: Yes, paper pattern. Images that give a sense of the size of the product ("This refrigerator is actually 6' tall", "A cellphone the size of a credit card") The theme was ‘Reduce Reuse Recycle’ and all nine contestants had to make three garments. The challenges included making a zero-waste pattern for a pair of trousers, upcycling tote bags into a wearable garment, and a made-to-measure outfit using secondhand crocheted blankets to fit a model. Take a look at our sewing pattern suggestions below, we’ve tried to find the exact patterns used but where we haven’t been able to we have plenty of suggestions so that you can recreate these looks at home for your handmade wardrobe. Kate also talks through her favourite pattern options from the episode on YouTube in our special mid-week sewing bee vlog.

Sustainable sewing with zero-waste patterns

Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler. Techniques Used I blush when I think about how much waste I’ve created in my career. Typically, there’s 15 percent fabric waste in clothing manufacturing, but sometimes there’s more. Designs with fewer large pattern pieces tend to create more waste because there are fewer little pieces to fill in the gaps. Larger sizes also create more waste for the same reason. The responsibility to dispose of the fabric scraps belongs to the factory, not the brand they’re making for. Most fabric waste ends up in landfills, some are burned, and a little is recycled. Worldwide, there are millions of square meters of fabric being wasted daily. Additionally, it’s estimated that 60 percent of the waste is synthetic (that is, forms of plastic). Patternmaking Considerations This is a 'one size' pattern which comes in two size ranges. Due to the zero waste nature of this pattern some design details may change between sizes, select your size to see more. Sewing Level: Beginner

By using every inch of fabric, you can not only save money in the long run but by reducing fabric waste, you are helping to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry. This is a great way to contribute to a more sustainable future. Haywood, E. M. (2002) Zero Waste Sewing, 16 projects to make, wear and enjoy, Australia: Cooatalaa Press Whether you're staying home or traveling, there's a way to bring along a product you made that allows you to use it again anytime. All you need to do is clean these things after using and they're like brand new! Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

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Milan AV-JC makes seven patterns available through a Creative Commons license. There are some beauties among them and I am planning at least one of these. Sewing can be an expensive hobby, but it is a great skill to have if you wish to live frugally. One of my favourite things to do is reuse old sheets or bedding covers to make new clothing. And in this instance it is great to use patterns that can use the whole of the fabric and not leave any waste at all. Images that show how a product performs ("I took this picture with this camera", "This shirt shrunk in the wash", "The saw blade after 100 cuts") Sizing: 0 – 34 (approx. UK 6 – 34, based on our standardised size chart). Available in the shop: PDF or PDF + printed copy shop.

If the pattern is going to be in multiple sizes, these have to be organised within the layout while it’s being made.I have knitted garments like the one below. It is very easy to do on a knitting machine for example and looks quite striking in a drapey fabric. This would be a very simple way to get started on zero waste without committing much more than a rectangle of fabric and it could be sewn or knitted which is a bonus. There are some thoughts on this design at https://lizhaywood.com.au/the-hug-me-tight-experiment/. This book also has lots of useful sewing tips and shows you a lot of sewing basics when making your own clothes or upcycling old clothes. So it is well worth a look. Zero Waste Sewing Patterns Online I’m not decrying ‘zero waste’ as a promotional tool for wiser fabric choices, better pattern design and more awareness of the issue of fast fashion and landfill. I think as Sewers we should be aware of all of this and more. We should be reusing our failed attempts, repurposing our older clothes and generally not buying so much. Fabric, just as much as fast fashion, is a terrible lure….I know it’s effects. There is plenty of support available for newbie sewists, too. The Fashion District festival, a five-day celebration of sustainable fashion that took place last week in Stratford, east London, dedicated a third of this year’s programme to maker workshops, including a tutorial on upcycling scarves into kimonos, hosted by the community interest company Trashion Factory. “There’s a huge appetite for people to be involved in their own fashion,” says Helen Lax, the festival’s founder. “This is a different incarnation of the good life. Rather than just following a pattern, the maker community is going off-grid and having a go. It’s about being able to take control of your style.” The process for making a zero-waste pattern is different from how we normally design and make patterns. Normally, a garment starts with a designer’s sketch, description, or photo. That sketch is then interpreted into a pattern, all the sizes are made, then a cutting layout is developed. With zero waste patterns, all these things happen at the same time. No one knows exactly what the design will be until the pattern is finished. Sometimes the style will vary slightly between sizes. This is one of the things that makes zero waste so exciting. With zero waste, patternmaking is used as the design tool.

Behave as if you were a guest at a friend's dinner party: please treat the Prime Publishing community with respect. Do not share: One of the things I am noticing about zero waste is how it can be more size inclusive. Although a design might be limited by the width of the material, an extra seam or two can accommodate larger sizes, which means it can be for everyone. You will see from the image above that many of the patterns are able to be made to any size. So what is zero waste pattern cutting? Well, it’s a bit like a puzzle that strategically plans your pattern pieces, so every bit of fabric is used. You draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric, following a cutting plan and templates instead of using printed pattern pieces, resulting in less fabric and paper waste. It’s great for anyone who feels frustrated with the build-up of inevitable fabric scraps and is ideal if you have a stunning length of fabric you want to make the most of.

But remember - zero waste is never zero - so any "zero waste fashion" option is creating some sort of waste or environmental impact. Imperfect system, imperfect answers. Still, there are definitely ways to drastically reduce the impact fast fashion and excessive consumption has on the planet.